Based on the first half of the film my review was going to be;
But it's much better than that and while it's not as weighty and substantial as Milk the story is arguably as significant; the content is just handled in a very British way.
It's broad and cheesy, it really over-eggs the emotional content and the score* is fucking awful to the point of distraction and yet it somehow manages to be an absolute joy to watch. And Bill Nighy pretty much steals the show with his understated performance.
* The actual thematic music rather than the pop songs which are perfect.
Only Lovers Left Alive isn't nearly as hip as it thinks it is; the constant name-dropping is cringe-inducing as is much of the clunky dialogue. I did wonder if it was meant to be a comedy but it's just not very funny. The most interesting parts were seeing run-down Detroit by night but that just made me wish I was watching Requiem for Detroit again.
Who'd have thought a movie by Jim Jarmusch about vampires with Tilda Swinton, heaps of dusty old vinyl, beautiful first edition books and vintage recording equipment could be so tedious?