My fourth (?) time watching this and still highly entertaining, as long as you don't go looking for a plot. This time I had the subtitles on, which rescued every incomprehensible line from Del Toro and every throwaway one from Depp.
Things I forgot this time around: They trash *two* rooms, not just one. Forgot that Christina Ricci is in it and how dubious their conversation about what to do with her. (And the terrorizing of the waitress! Gilliam made sure to keep in the awful stuff to stay true to the book.) Forgot the other numerous cameos (Lyle Lovett! Penn Gilette! Harry Dean Stanton! Hunter S Thompson!)
Nothing much more to add right now except to say if it wasn't for the subtitles I would have missed: "Dogs fucked the Pope. No fault of mine."